Gasherbrum I, originally surveyed as K5, and also known as Hidden Peak, is the 11th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is located between Shigar District in the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and Tashkurgan in the Xinjiang province of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum Massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya.
Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible face of the neighboring peak Gasherbrum IV; but in fact, it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) + "brum" (mountain) in Balti language, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain".
Gasherbrum I was designated K5 (meaning the 5th peak of the Karakoram) by T.G. Montgomerie in 1856 when he first spotted the peaks of the Karakoram from more than 200 km away during the Great Trigonometric Survey of India. In 1892, William Martin Conway provided the alternate name, Hidden Peak, in reference to its extreme remoteness, due to which it remains hidden behind anterior peaks of the Gasherbrum group for most of the way along the Baltoro Glacier.
Gasherbrum I was first climbed on July 5, 1958, by Pete Schoening and Andy Kauffman of an eight-man United States expedition led by Nicholas Clinch, Richard K. Irvin, Tom Nevison, Tom McCormack, Bob Swift and Gil Roberts were also members of the team.
Timeline
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1934 - A large international expedition, organized by the Swiss G.O. Dyhrenfurth, explores Gasherbrum I and II. Two climbers get to .
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1936 - A France expedition gets to .
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1958 - An American team led by Nicholas Clinch, including the two Pakistani army officers captain Mohammad Akram and captain S.T.H Rizvi, makes the first ascent via Roch ridge.
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1975 - Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler reach the summit on a new route (northwest route) in pure alpine style (first time on an 8000-metre peak) taking three days in total.
One day later, a team of three led by Austrian Hanns Schell reached the summit on the American route.
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1977 - The fourth successful ascent by two Slovenians ( and Andrej Stremfelj), again on a new route. Team member Drago Bregar dies.
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1980 - Frenchmen Maurice Barrard and Georges Narbaud
are successful with the fifth ascent, and pass the South Ridge for the first time.[
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1981 - A Japanese team follows the Clinch route with fixed ropes for the sixth successful ascent.
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1982 - Michael Dacher, Siegfried Hupfauer and Günter Sturm of a German expedition summit via a new route on the north face. In the same year, French Marie-José Vallençant is the first woman who reaches the summit. Her husband, Sylvain Saudan from Switzerland, performs the first ski descent from the top of an 8000-metre peak to base camp.
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1983 - Jerzy Kukuczka with Wojciech Kurtyka, new route. Alpine style ascent without the aid of oxygen.
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1983 - Teams from Switzerland and Spain are successful.
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1984 - Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander traverse Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I without returning to base camp in between.
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1985 - Solo ascent by Benoît Chamoux. On July 14, the Italian Giampiero Di Federico (solo ascent) opens a new route on the north-west face.
[Fanshawe & Venables "Himalaya alpine-style" ]
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1997 - Magnus Rydén and Johan Åkerström reach the summit.
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2003 - 19 people reach the summit. Four people lose their lives to the mountain, including Mohammad Oraz.
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2012 - March 9, Adam Bielecki and (Poland) make the first winter ascent. They do so without the aid of supplementary oxygen.
[ The same day, three climbers from a different expedition — Austrian Gerfried Göschl, Swiss Cedric Hählen and Pakistani Nisar Hussain Sadpara — go missing, never to be found again. They were trying to ascend via a new route and are considered to have been blown off by strong winds.][
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2013 - 7 July, Artur Hajzer dies after falling in the Japanese Couloir after an attempt to reach the summit.
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2013 - 21 July, Spaniards Abel Alonso, Xebi Gomez, and Álvaro Paredes climb to the top, then disappear while descending after a storm.
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2017 - 30 July, in an alpine style six-day ascent without supplementary oxygen, Czechs Marek 'Mára' Holeček and Zdeněk Hák establish a new route named "Satisfaction!" (in memory of Zdeněk Hrubý) up the Southwest Face.
See also
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List of deaths on Gasherbrum I
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List of mountains in Pakistan
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Highest Mountains of the World
Bibliography
Notes and references
External links